We All Scream for Two Buttermilk Ice Creams

The strawberries are here and what better way to celebrate the warming weather than with home-made strawberry ice cream! I had seen a recipe somewhere that used buttermilk instead of cream for ice cream so I thought I’d try it. The buttermilk gives the ice cream a very subtle but lovely tang that cuts the sweetness of the sugar and fruit just enough. Because the buttermilk is low fat, it’s more of a sherbet and is a little icier than a true ice cream; but whatever you call it, it’s tasty.

One of the problems of cooking with buttermilk, however, is that you always have a lot left over. Usually, I use up leftover buttermilk by making rolls but I was still in an ice cream frame of mind. Inspired by an experimental – and highly successful – cheesecake I developed about a year ago, I decided to try a brown sugar and molasses ice cream with the buttermilk. I love molasses and you definitely do have to like molasses to like this ice cream (the flavor is much more pronounced than it is in the cheesecake). The buttermilk tang lightens up the dark molasses flavor a little and the result is a very rich – this one is much creamier than the strawberry – and surprisingly sophisticated despite the humble ingredients.

Strawberry Buttermilk Ice Cream

• 1 cup water
• ½ cup sugar
• 1 lb. strawberries, hulled and rinsed
• 1 cup low-fat buttermilk

1. Combine water and sugar in a small pot; bring to a boil and stir until sugar dissolves. Cool and pour into a large bowl.
2. Purée the strawberries in blender until smooth. Add the strawberry purée and buttermilk to the sugar syrup and stir to combine.
3. Pour the strawberry mixture into ice cream maker and let mix for 30 minutes.

Brown Sugar and Molasses Buttermilk Ice Cream

• 4 tbsp. butter
• ½ cup light brown sugar
• ¼ cup molasses
• 1 ½ cups low-fat buttermilk

1. Melt butter in a small pot; add the brown sugar and stir until it dissolves. Remove from heat and add the molasses and stir to combine. Cool completely.
2. Add the buttermilk to the brown sugar and molasses mixture and stir to combine. Pour into ice cream maker and let mix for 30 minutes.

Simply De-leek-table

We ate very well on our recent trip to Switzerland. For one dinner we went to a restaurant that served food from the Vaud region. I ordered a seasonal specialty called saucisse au chou (sausage with cabbage that was very similar to sauerkraut and very delicious). It was served with papet vaudois which is creamed leeks and potatoes and it was heavenly. I remembered that I had a recipe for Belgian leek tart with aged goat cheese in my “inspiration” folder so I pulled it out as soon as I got back in my home kitchen. It’s basically a quiche and has that lovely leek flavor. I made just a few tweaks – mostly by lightening the dairy, using more cheese, and incorporating some crust tips I’ve picked up. I admit that I can get lazy with savory crusts and often end up using a store-bought one, but this crust looked very easy so I went for it and it was definitely worth it.

Belgian Leek Tart with Goat Cheese (9” tart)

Crust

• 4 tbsp. (or more) ice water
• ¾ tsp. apple cider vinegar
• 1 ½ cups flour
• ¾ tsp. salt
• ½ cup plus 1 tbsp. chilled unsalted butter, cut into small pieces

Filling

• ¼ cup unsalted butter
• 3 leeks, halved lengthwise and cut crosswise into ¼-inch slices
• 2 tbsp. water
• ¾ tsp. salt
• ½ cup skim milk
• ½ cup light cream
• 1 egg
• 1 egg yolk
• 1 cup crumbled goat cheese

1. Preheat oven to 375°. To make the crust, combine 4 tbsp. ice water and cider vinegar in a small bowl. Blend flour and salt in a food processor. Add butter and pulse until the mixture resembles coarse meal. With the machine running, slowly add the water-vinegar mixture, processing until moist clumps form. If dough seems dry, add more ice water by the teaspoon. Gather the dough into a ball and flatten into a disk. Wrap in plastic and refrigerate at least 2 hours (can be made 3 days ahead). Allow dough to soften slightly at room temperature before rolling out.
2. Spray a 9-inch tart pan with removable bottom with cooking spray. Roll the dough out on a lightly floured work surface to a 12-inch round. Transfer the dough to the tart pan; fold in the overhang and press to extend the dough ½ inch above the sides. Cover with plastic wrap and put in the freezer for 30 minutes (this will prevent the crust from shrinking). Remove the crust from the freezer, line the pan with foil that has been sprayed with cooking spray and fill with pie weights or dried beans. Bake until crust is set, about 30 minutes. Remove the foil and weights and bake another 20-25 minutes until the crust is pale golden. Remove from the oven and cool slightly.
3. While the crust is baking, melt the butter in a large pot over medium heat. Add the leeks and stir to coat. Stir in the water and ½ tsp. salt. Cover the pot and reduce heat to low. Cook until the leeks are tender, stirring often, about 25 minutes. Uncover and cook to evaporate excess water, 2-3 minutes.
4. While the crust is cooling, whisk the milk, cream, egg, egg yolk, and ¼ tsp. salt together in a medium bowl. Sprinkle ½ cup goat cheese over the bottom of the warm crust. Spread the leek mixture over and sprinkle with remaining cheese. Pour the milk mixture over. Bake until the filling has puffed, is golden in spots, and the center looks set, 35-40 minutes. Transfer to a rack and cool slightly. Remove pan sides.

I’ll Stop the World and Melt with You

One of my favorite fast, last-minute-when-you-are-starving meals is a tomato melt. I warm a little olive oil and add garlic (pressed or just cut into big chunks) and some dried basil and oregano. I brush the infused oil on a sliced roll or French bread, top it with tomato slices and cheese, and broil it until the cheese melts. Yum! I particularly like Havarti cheese for this sandwich; sometimes I’ll use dill Havarti and forgo the dried herbs. I was flipping through Gourmet Meals in Minutes (a fabulous cookbook) and found a recipe for an eggplant melt. This seemed like an intriguing variation on my beloved tomato melt. I changed up the recipe, paring down the ingredients significantly. A hit! And it makes me wonder what other tasty possibilities there are for simple melty sandwiches.

Eggplant Melt (4 to 6 servings)

• ¼ cup olive oil
• ¼ cup balsamic vinegar
• 1 garlic clove, pressed
• salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
• 1 eggplant cut into ½-inch slices
• loaf of wheat ciabatta, split lengthwise and cut into 4-6 portions
• Havarti cheese, sliced

1. Heat the broiler.
2. In a small bowl, whisk together the oil, vinegar, garlic, salt, and pepper. Brush the eggplant slices on both sides with the oil and vinegar mixture. Broil the eggplant until golden brown, 5-6 minutes per side.
3. Brush the ciabatta with the oil and vinegar mixture and broil until lightly toasted, about 1 minute.
4. Layer the eggplant slices on the bottom half of the bread and cover with the cheese slices. Broil until the cheese melts. Place the other half of the bread on top.

I’d Like my Salad Well Done, Please

Sometimes I’m in the mood for a light steak. No, that’s not an oxymoron. A salad with feta and lemon vinaigrette topped with strips of grilled steak is just the thing. The lemony salty crunchy salad lightens up the rich steak and makes a complete meal that is satisfying without being heavy. This salad works really well as a wrap, as well.

Salad with Grilled Steak with Feta and Lemon Vinaigrette (6 servings)

• 1 small clove garlic, pressed
• ¼ tsp. freshly ground black pepper
• 2 tsp. lemon zest
• 2 tbsp. lemon juice
• 2 tbsp. white wine vinegar
• ½ cup olive oil
• 1 head of iceberg lettuce, rinsed and roughly chopped
• 1 pint cherry or grape tomatoes, halved
• 1 cucumber, peeled and sliced
• 6 oz. crumbled feta cheese
• 1 ½ lbs. flank steak, grilled and sliced into thin strips

1. To make the vinaigrette, combine the garlic, pepper, and lemon zest in a bowl. Mix in the lemon juice and vinegar. Whisk the olive oil in a slow stream to form an emulsion.
   In a large bowl, combine the lettuce, tomatoes, cucumber slices, feta cheese, and vinaigrette and toss well.
2. Serve the salad topped with the strips of grilled steak.

Spring is in the Air and on the Plate

This is a sophisticated take on soup and a sandwich, one that is perfect for early spring. Asparagus is the star of the soup (which comes from Jasper White's Cooking from New England) but the wild rice gives it a fantastic nutty base and a lovely texture. The sandwich is a smoked trout melt with cucumber on pumpernickel (from Relaxed Cooking with Curtis Stone). The combination of smoked trout (which I adore) with the crème fraîche and cucumber, highlighted with lemon and lots of dill, and grounded with the pumpernickel bread is just brilliant.

Asparagus and Wild Rice Soup (4 to 6 servings)

• 2 lbs. asparagus
• 1 medium onion, chopped
• 2 tbsp. unsalted butter
• 1 cup wild rice
• 4 cups vegetable stock
• 1 cup light cream
• juice of ½ lemon

1. Cut of the asparagus tips and save for garnish Roughly chop the stalks.
2. Sweat the onion in butter in a heavy soup pot. After a few minutes, add half the wild rice and the chicken stock. Simmer for 30 minutes, then add the stalks. Simmer 30 minutes more.
3. While the soup is cooking, prepare the garnishes. Cut the asparagus tips into ½-in. pieces and blanch in boiling salted water for 1 minute. Shock in cold water and set aside.
   Simmer the remaining ½ cup wild rice in lightly salted water for about 40 minutes or until cooked through. Drain and set aside.
4. After the soup has simmered for a hour, purée in a blender and return to the pot. Bring the soup back to a boil and add the asparagus and wild rice garnishes. Add the cream and simmer 5 minutes more.
5. Remove from heat and stir in the lemon juice.

Smoked Trout Melt with Cucumber on Pumpernickel (4 servings)

• 10 oz. smoked trout, skin and any bones removed
• ½ cup crème fraîche
• 1 ½ tbsp. chopped fresh dill
• 1 ½ tbsp. fresh lemon juice
• lemon zest
• 4 slices pumpernickel
• 1 cucumber, thinly sliced
• cheese to melt on top (the original recipe calls for Emmentaler, I used raclette)

1. Preheat the broiler.
2. Flake the trout into large chunks and toss in a medium bowl with the crème fraîche, dill, lemon juice, and lemon zest.
3. Arrange the pumpernickel slices in a single layer on a baking sheet and broil for about 2 minutes on each side.
4. Arrange the cucumber slices on the toast and spoon the trout mixture over the cucumbers.
5. Top the sandwiches with the cheese and broil for about 3 minutes or until the cheese has melted and is lightly golden.

More than Just Dip

We had a party at my office where a few people brought in things to nibble on. I made breadsticks with my two favorite dips: pumpkin-cannellini bean and roasted red pepper. There was plenty left over so it’s a good thing these dips are versatile.

The roasted red pepper dip is a recipe I adapted (ever so slightly) from Main-Course Sandwiches by Ray Overton where it was presented as a tapenade to be used as a sandwich spread. But leftovers also make a terrific quick pasta; simply toss the cooked and drained pasta with the dip and voila.

I made a variation on my pumpkin-cannellini bean dip by substituting 10-12 sage leaves instead of the herbes de Provence, omitting the garlic, and adding ¼ cup Parmesan cheese. I wondered whether I could use those leftovers as a pasta sauce as well. I cooked up a pound of farfalle, reserving 1 cup of the pasta water before draining. I added about ½ cup of the pasta water to the dip to make it a little more saucy and tossed it with the pasta. Conclusion: another great quick pasta sauce from another great dip.

Roasted Red Pepper Dip

• 2 red bell peppers
• 12 oil-packed sun-dried tomatoes, drained
• 2 anchovy fillets
• 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
• 1 tbsp. capers, rinsed and drained
• 1 tbsp. herbes de Provence
• ¼ cup fresh basil, chopped
• 1/3 cup olive oil
• 1 tbsp. freshly squeezed lemon juice
• 1 tbsp. lemon zest
• freshly ground black pepper

1. Arrange the peppers in a foil-lined baking sheet about 6 inches from the broiler. Roast until the peppers are charred all over, turning with tongs ever few minutes, about 15 minutes under the broiler. Place blackened peppers in a heavy-duty zip-top freezer bag and seal (the steam will loosen the skin of the peppers). When cool enough to handle, gently remove the charred skin, tear open the peppers, and remove the seeds.
2. In a food processor or blender combine the peppers, sun-dried tomatoes, anchovies, garlic, capers, herbes de Provence, and basil. Process until chopped. With the machine running add the olive oil in a thin, steady stream until the mixture is smooth and thick. Stir in the lemon juice and season to taste with the pepper. Cover and refrigerate.

Serve with breadsticks (shown above) or pita chips, use as a sandwich spread (for example, it’s delicious with prosciutto and mozzarella on ciabatta) or use as a pasta sauce.

Pumpkin-Cannellini Bean Dip

• 1 cup pumpkin purée
• 1 cup canned cannellini beans, rinsed and drained
• 10-12 fresh sage leaves
• ¼ cup Parmesan cheese
• ¼ cup olive oil

1. Combine all the ingredients except the olive oil in a food process and process roughly. While running the food processor, stream in the olive oil and mix well.

Serve with breadsticks or pita chips or use as a pasta sauce (shown above), reserving pasta cooking water and adding it to the dip to make it saucier.

Spaghetti Fast or Slow

Spaghetti with meat sauce is one of my favorite comfort foods. I always make the sauce from scratch. It’s very easy and it’s pretty fast; dinner can be ready in 30 minutes. The key is lots of tomato paste to thicken the sauce and give a deep tomato-y flavor. I also use ground bison rather than ground beef (it has more flavor and less fat) but you could certainly use beef.

But I had a whole afternoon with nothing to do so I thought I would try a slow-simmering sauce and add some extra touches to give it a deeper, richer flavor. In addition to adding pork, I also added porcini mushrooms. The result was a rich, deep flavor that was absolutely delicious. The only thing I would change next time I make this (and there will definitely be a next time) is to add a little pancetta to the ground meat. I also used linguini because that’s what I happened to have in my pantry but you could use any long pasta that you prefer (or have on hand).

I’ll always go back to my fast spaghetti for a quick meal but when I have more time, the slow version is definitely worth the wait!

Slow Linguine with Porcini Meat Sauce (4 to 6 servings)

• ¼ cup dried porcini mushrooms
• ½ cup hot water
• 1 tbsp. olive oil
• ½ lb. ground bison or beef
• ½ lb. ground pork
• ¼ cup chopped fresh parsley
• 2 cloves garlic, pressed
• ¼ tsp. salt
• 1/8 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
• 1 28-oz. can crushed tomatoes
• ½ tsp. dried oregano
• ½ tsp. dried marjoram
• 1 lb. spaghetti, linguini, or other long pasta, cooked and drained

1. In a small bowl, soak the mushrooms in the hot water until soft, about 15 minutes. Drain the mushrooms, reserving the liquid, and finely chop.
2. In a large pan, heat the olive oil. Add the bison, pork, garlic, parsley, salt, and pepper. Cook, breaking up the meat, until browned, about 10 minutes.
3. Stir in the tomatoes, oregano, marjoram, mushrooms, and reserved mushroom liquid. Bring to a boil then lower heat, cover, and simmer, stirring occasionally, about 2 hours.
   Serve with the pasta.

Fast Spaghetti with Meat Sauce (4 to 6 servings)

• 1 onion, chopped
• 1 tbsp. olive oil
• 1 lb. ground bison or beef
• 2 small cans tomato sauce
• 1 small can tomato paste
• 2 cloves garlic, crushed
• ½ tsp. dried basil
• ½ tsp. dried oregano
• ½ tsp. dried marjoram
• 1 bay leaf
• 1 lb. spaghetti, cooked and drained

1. Sauté the onion and ground beef in the olive oil until the beef is cooked through.
   Stir in the tomato sauce and tomato paste.
2. Add the garlic, bay leaf. Add basil and oregano to taste. Simmer for up to 30 minutes.
3. Remove the bay leaf and serve with the pasta.